A random 2001 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

On our second night in San Francisco, Mark, JJ, Dave and I went back into the city for dinner. After the conference sessions had concluded there was a reception with wine and hors d'oeuvres among the vendor booths (good strategy: get the attendees tipsy, then sic the sales guys on 'em). Having diddled around at the reception for too long, it was eight or so before we started thinking about dinner.

Dave, never having been to San Francisco before, really wanted to go into the city (the conference was at a hotel near the airport). We hemmed and hawed for a while, trying to figure out where we'd go and the best way to get there. After some minutes, it was clear that we were making no progress, so JJ just started walking to the front of the hotel.

With no clear plan at all, we hopped into a cab and asked the driver to take us into the city, we'd tell him precisely where later. After ten minutes of furious cell phone yelping and calling for reservations we decided on some obscure Italian place, the name of which has completely escaped me. This is unfortunate as it was one of the best meals I've eaten in a long time.

We shared two appetizers. The first was some truly remarkable grilled vegetables, which under any other circumstances I would rave about at length. Sadly for the veggies, they were upstaged by a plate of burrata (a fresh buffalo mozzarella shell, filled with a mixture of more mozzarella and cream) accompanied by crostini and caponata. The burrata was exquisite, fresh, creamy, lightly sweet... I've never tasted anything quite like it.

For my entree I had a plate of braised rabbit with polenta. The preparation was very traditional; no fancy flourishes, just flavor so rich and complex that it makes you want to cry.

This wine was up to the task of accompanying such a fine meal, though I must admit that I don't recall much about it. This is ok, I think. Wine doesn't always have to announce itself. Like a good server, sometimes it's enough that wine makes everything come together smoothly without your even noticing.