Jaboulet 2005 Muscat De Beaumes-De-Venise

I stayed late at work tonight, so late that I missed the last express bus home. I originally planned to take the bus tunnel to the SLUT, and walk home the rest of the way, but Jenny offered to meet me at Whole Foods where we could shop for dinner groceries and drive home together.

While wandering around picking up dinner groceries, Jenny broached the idea of dessert. Originally she wanted chocolate or something from the pasty case, but when I suggested cheese and dessert wine, she quickly came around to my way of thinking.

For the cheese, we got a mini Cheverot, a French goat cheese made by Cooperative Sevre-et-Belle in Poitou. Steve Jenkins in his Cheese Primer says he "never has tasted better goat cheese." This one we had tonight has young, so tasted sweet, but still had nice piquant goat cheese flavor.

The dessert wine selection at Whole Foods is somewhat limited (dozens of ports, 2 sauternes, 1 muscat, a handful of random domestic dessert wines), but this muscat seemed a good choice. Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise is an AC in France's Rhone region. The wines produced there are "vin doux naturel" or natually sweet wines. They are produced from grapes that are naturally high in sugar and then fortified with neutral flavored alcohol. This bottle has lovely honey flavor and floral nose. It was a superb companion to the cheese and the first honeycrisp apple of the season.

All in all, an exceptionally delicious dessert course.

Value is suddenly fashionable

You know the economy is in trouble when Eric Asimov at the New York Times writes an article on finding good wine values. His most salient advice: "Even with the pitiful exchange rate, France is the greatest source of wine bargains in the world."

This blog is squarely focused on value wines, and this seems a good opportunity to thank my friend JJ for instilling in me the importance of seeking "value" in all things, not least culinary pleasures. Any idiot can get satisfactory food and wine by spending a lot of money, but the real joy is in finding superlative food and wine in more modest venues at lower prices.

2006 Domaine de Montine - Coteaux Du Tricastin

The Coteaux Du Tricastin appellation in situated in the south of France's Rhone region. Many varietals are grown there, and I'm not adept enough to discern which one dominates this wine. Either way, I wasn't very happy with this bottle as it's flavor profile was dominated by earthy tobacco flavors (Jenny described it as "dusty" and "rustic"). The small amount of fruit flavors present were very dark, running dangerously close to bitter.

$12 at McCarthy and Schiering. I won't buy more.

2006 El Quintanal - Ribera Del Duero

Not to be confused with the Duoro region in Portugal, Ribera Del Duero is a DO in northern Spain, along (as one might guess) the Duero river. This bottle is 100% Tempranillo, known locally as Tinto Fino, and has a flavor reminiscent of chocolate covered cherries. The fact that I don't like chocolate covered cherries, along with the rough tannins means that I probably won't be buying more.

$12 at McCarthy and Schiering.

Domaine du Pas Saint Martin - 2007 Saumur

I made Indian vegetable curry for dinner last night and it was my best effort yet. I toasted the spices perfectly, and got spectacular browning from the aromatics and spices before adding the liquid.

I was eagerly anticipating the leftovers on my way home tonight and while I was walking from the bus I pondered what wine I'd like to drink. I prefer unoaked whites with spicy food, particularly those with high acid.

I stopped by McCarthy and Schiering and quickly spotted a tempting bottle of Gruner-Veltliner, but when I explained my situation to Lauren, she pointed out that the 2007 wines from Saumur were super high in acid (unfortunately, I didn't ask why). Since I tend to like acidic wines, I went home with this bottle which runs $13.

It's based on the Chenin Blanc, as is common in Suamur wines, and Chenin Blanc is known for high acidtity, but this wine it pretty extreme. Still, the nice citrus flavors come through, and it was great with my spicy curry.

2006 Lemelson Pinot Noir

After hacking up my finger cutting basil into chiffonade on Friday night, I didn't feel like cooking dinner on Saturday, so Jenny and I walked to How To Cook A Wolf for dinner. As usual, they were jam packed with a 45 minute wait for a table inside, but luckily there was no wait for an outdoor table. We'd brought light coats, so sitting on the sidewalk on a crisp evening was just fine with us.

We shared bruschetta topped with cranberry beans, marinated heirloom tomatoes, and a bowl of trofie with pesto. The pasta was particularly delicious; even better than the trofie I've had in Liguria (where it originates).

The wine was also very tasty, exhibiting classic pinot flavors of red fruit (Jenny: cherry, me: strawberry) and perfumey vanilla from the Burgundian oak in which it's aged. I might have preferred something a little more earthy with our meal, but this bottle was up to the job.

It wasn't cheap at $42. I probably wouldn't get it again at restaurant prices, but would definitely consider it if I wanted a good example of Oregon pinot and found it in the low-$20s at a wine shop.

Domaine de la Pepiere - 2007 Muscadet

A new vintage of an old favorite. It smells of pears, and has bright citrus acidity and a full mouth-feel. An superb accompaniment to the roast chicken with root vegetables I made for dinner (including lovely beets from my local farmer's market).

$13 at McCarthy and Schiering, and worth every penny.